how to fill in holes and crevices on a wooden hull

[Philip]

just a quick tip for you all. Most wooden boats that have been in sea water for a while , be it a tender or large yacht will have critters living along the plimsole line and below. after time these will eat away at the wood. because most of the scaring will be under the waterline , most fillers cant be used as the seawater will get behind them at push them out as they are not flexible enough. so, how do you overcome this and get a good finish with out replacing planks. this is how - get some linseed putty add small amount of boiled linseed ,red lead powder and mix. after a while this will go to a paste add a small amount primer . brush on into the areas, when dry this can sanded down to a fine finish regards phil

[Philip]

surpised no one has commented on this? reg phil

[Mike]

Well, Phil, I was hoping someone else would comment instead of little old me.

When I read this post of yours, the first thing that sprang to mind was: "Why not caulking?" And to be honest, having never worked on a traditional build, I would not know the definitive answer to my own question. One day, I may take on a project like yours myself - if I ever get enough time to do so. :innocent:

It occurs to me that, provided this technique is sound - and I presume it is or you wouldn't be using it - then you are likely to end up with a much fairer hull than would be the case with caulked planks. I have to say that I've never been much impressed with hulls that are simply caulked. And I have it from someone who would know that caulking a boat can be a pain if you sail the boat into warmer and drier climes than where it was caulked.

Anyway, looking at your photos, I would say it is going to look really good. But I don't envy you working on that big hull all on your own. You are a better man than I am, Gunga Din! ;)

Best wishes

[Philip]

you still caulk the planks as normal, with linseed putty and red lead powder. this method is for planks which have had there face destroyed by the sea critters!, if badly damaged or rotten must be replaced. on a boat like token we have replaced about 20 planks , but some along the waterline were border line using this method it brings the face of the plank flat again without the use of fillers. which just wouldn't hold under the water. after , you can sand down to fair the hull . regards phil

[Mike]

Ahah, now I see what you mean. This technique is to restore damamge to the surface using a paste that will stay in place under water. I thought you meant that this was an alternative to caulking.

I was hoping to have heard back from Sara Stirling about her idea of running some classes at Morwellham Quay on traditional boatbuilding. Must give Will and Sara a call to see how they are getting along.

I haven't had the knowledge or the guts to get stuck into a traditional build or restoration. I looked at doing one of the BBA courses but the money they charge seemed to me sufficient to build a good sized boat using modern materials. Hence, I went for what seemed the sensible option.

Thanks, Phil. With tips like these, I may just garner enough knowse, and thus confidence, to tackle something like restoring an old timer one day. But I'm not sure I would have the energy these days to tackle something as big as Token. A smaller boat perhaps.

Respect